Spuntino

My defences are down. I went to Spuntino last night and I have woken up with a warm fuzzy feeling inside. So, I’ll be honest - I plan on saying nothing bad about this new eating spot in the depths of seediest Soho. There’s something about Spuntino’s low lighting, bar-loud Americano music and comfort food that make it so hard not to love.

Spuntino comes from the crew who brought Polpetto and Polpo. London's new-found love of small plate dining shows no sign of losing pace. Spuntino follows on a similar theme, whilst opting for a New York, rather than Italian-inspired, menu. It sits on Rupert Street, a rusted and unassuming exterior nestled between sex book shops and flashing neon signs. What lies beneath is a tiny space buzzing with energy – a long bar offers space for 28 people and this is the sum-total of the seating in Spuntino.

You can’t book at Spuntino, so you will have to wait (on my Thursday evening visit I waited for about an hour). But this is all part of the fun – you can queue around the back of the bar and order drinks and bar snacks while you wait. Everything about Spuntino lends itself to hardcore cocktail drinking before dinner – lean, listen to Johnny Cash and knock back Dirty Martinis.

Once you are finally seated you can settle in to an evening of grazing. The hot bar staff will relish talking you through their personal menu favourites. Try the sliders – mini burgers in brioche buns, bone marrow included. The truffle egg toast is an unashamed crowd pleaser – thick white bread, melted Fontina cheese and a well filled with a soft boiled egg yolk and white truffle oil. A little metal dish of multi-coloured house pickles might just make your night. Other hits included deep fried soft shell crab and tabasco, cheesy grits (remember ‘My Cousin Vinny’?!) and mac n cheese.

Even if you think you’re spent, order the peanut butter and jelly sandwich dessert - two wedges of lusciously salty peanut butter ice cream hold a sweet and gooey cherry compote ‘jelly’. When the friendly waiter twists your arm to try another cocktail, just go with it – as the place slowly empties you can slump on the bar and order another round of shoestring fries.

Spuntino