Albion at The Boundary

Albion calls itself a ‘caff’. Anywhere that has a website on which to call itself a ‘caff’ is clearly not a ‘caff’. Albion Café is, in fact, part of The Boundary Hotel - Terence Conran’s artsy East London project. The café is light and bright with shared tables (expect to overhear Mummy/ Daughter conversations on how to keep the nanny in check). There are painstakingly ‘down to earth’ touches like sauce pots on the tables and cutlery in Golden Syrup tins.

It is all achingly tasteful. That being said, the food at Albion is refreshingly simple and honest. The menu’s crammed with British classics like devilled kidneys, coronation chicken and sausage rolls. And you’ll get exactly what you ordered. Skirt and chips is just that. No side salad, no sauces, no deconstructions. Simple white plates arrive piled with generous portions of quality ingredients.

And the breads are off the scale. An open kitchen allows you to see the chefs and bakers busy at work. The pass is cluttered with freshly baked loaves and buns cooling on trays.

Mr Conran may have had a bit of neck air dropping a high end eatery into the heart of Tower Hamlets and calling it a caff. But once you’ve tasted the white bloomer you might just decide to let him off.

Albion 0207 729 1051